|
Embroidery
chart to help determine which needle, thread, and backing to use
with different types of fabrics.
Chart prepared by Diamond
Threadworks
Key:
A-Adhesive, BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway,
H2O-Hydrostick or Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh,
S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle, WS-Water Soluble
|
Fabric
Type
|
Thread
weight
|
Needle
|
Backing
|
Topping
|
Other
Considerations
|
|
Aida
|
40
|
75/11
S
|
A-T,
T, or H2O-T
|
|
There’s
no need to worry about lining up the squares on the
Aida cloth with the squares on the cross-stitch machine
embroidery design. It’s practically impossible to
do, and most people will never notice if they’re not lined
up. The Aida cloth gives the appearance that the embroidery
is done by hand.
|
|
Balsa
Wood
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
S, or metallica
|
A-T,
T or H2O-T
|
none
or WS
|
Wetting
WS may make wood curl. Dry flat under weights.
Wet wood swells, and becomes softer and easier to penetrate.
Water can stain wood, so if you get it wet, get it wet all
over, so the stain doesn’t show. You don’t have to
get it wet, that’s just some advice in case you choose to.
Use a new needle, as paper and wood cause needles to dull
quickly, and dull needles can split wood.
|
|
Blanket
Material
|
40
|
75/11
BP
|
C
or H2O-C
|
Tu
or WS
|
Needs
good underlayer if WS used.
|
|
Broadcloth
|
40
|
75/11
S
|
A-T,
T or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Canvas
|
30-40
|
80/12-100/16
S
|
A-T,
T or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Chenille
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
S or BP
|
A-T,
T or H2O-T
|
Tu
or WS
|
|
|
Chiffon
|
40-60
|
60/8-75/11
S
|
Ha
or WS
|
none
or WS
|
|
|
Corduroy
|
40
|
75/11
-90/14 S or BP
|
Ha
if not to be washed. C, H2O-C, T, or H2O-T if washable.
|
WS
if washable.
|
Needs
to have good underlayer built into design.
|
|
Cotton-handkerchief
|
50-60
|
60/8-70/10
S
|
Ha,
A-T, T, or H2O-T.
|
|
Use
a lightweight stabilizer.
|
|
Cotton-quilting
wt
|
40
|
75/11-85/12
S
|
A-T,
T or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Cotton-heavy
wt
|
30-40
|
90/14-100/16
S
|
A-T,
T, or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Crochet
or Knit yarn items
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
BP
|
A-T,
T, or H2O-T
|
Tu
or WS
|
Hoop
stabilizer, adhere item to stabilizer. Use topping
to help keep stitches from sinking into the yarn.
Use a design with a good underlay if you use WS, or the
stitches will sink after the WS is washed away.
|
Chart prepared by Diamond
Threadworks
Key:
A-Adhesive, BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway,
H2O-Hydrostick or Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh,
S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle, WS-Water Soluble
|
Fabric
Type
|
Thread
Weight
|
Needle
|
Backing
|
Topping
|
Other
Considerations
|
|
Denim
|
30-40
|
80/12-100/16
Denim needle
|
C,
Ny, F-Ny or H2O-C
|
|
|
|
Fake
Fur
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
BP
|
H2O-C
|
Tu
or WS
|
Needs
good underlayer if WS used
|
|
Felt
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
S or BP
|
A-T,
H2O-C or H2O-T
|
|
Everything
looks good on felt, because it pushes and pulls with your
embroidery, and nearly always lays flat. Okay to use
for sample books, but don’t use for actual customer samples
or they will be disappointed if the design doesn’t look
as good on their actual item.
|
|
Fleece
|
40
|
75/11
or 80/12 BP
|
F-Ny
or H2O-C
|
Tu
or WS
|
|
|
Gauze
|
40-60
|
60/8-75/11
S or BP
|
Ha
or WS
|
none
or WS
|
|
|
Herculon
|
30-40
|
9/14-100/16
S
|
A-T,
T, H2O-T, C, or H2O-C
|
|
|
|
Jute
or Hemp woven
|
30-40
|
80/12-100/16
S
|
A-T,
T, H2O-T, C, H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
|
|
|
Knit
Cotton
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
BP
|
C,
H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
|
Use
adhesive spray with C or Ny
|
|
Knit
Fleece
|
40
|
75/11
or 80/12 BP
|
F-Ny
or H2O-C
|
Tu
or WS
|
|
|
Leather
|
40
|
Leather
needle
Don’t
use BP
|
C,
H2O-C, T, H2O-T, or Ny
|
|
Make
sure leather dye is colorfast to water before using H2O.
Leather stretches when wet, and it also softens, making
needle penetration easier. Water stains leather, so
anytime you get it wet, wet it all over, so the stain doesn’t
show. Allow to dry if you use H2O backing. May
need to reduce density slightly on design, to avoid perforating.
Heavier thread will help prevent gaps from reduced density,
but may not be necessary. Soft leather is less likely
to be damaged than stiff leather. Test on similar
type leather. Use minimum amount/weight of stabilizer,
if you use any at all. If possible, hoop only the
stabilizer, and stick the leather to it. If not possible,
then hoop before tightening. Loosen hoop before unhooping.
Wrap hoops in tape to help minimize hoop marks. Steam
or spray with magic sizing and use suede brush and circular
motion to remove hoop marks. If customer supplies
the garment, have them sign off that they understand that
you only take responsibility for embroidery work, not for
damage to the leather.
|
Chart
prepared by Diamond
Threadworks
Key:
A-Adhesive, BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway,
H2O-Hydrostick or Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh,
S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle, WS-Water Soluble
|
Fabric
Type
|
Thread
weight
|
Needle
|
Backing
|
Topping
|
Other
Considerations
|
|
Linen
|
40
|
75/11
or 90/14S
|
Ha,
A-T, T, or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Lycra
|
40-60
|
75/11
– 90/14 BP
|
C,
F-Ny, H2O-C, or Ny
|
|
Use
adhesive spray with C or Ny. Don’t stretch while hooping.
Better to hoop the stabilizer, then stick Lycra to the backing
and baste in the hoop if needed for added stability.
|
|
Muslin
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
S
|
C
or H2O-C
|
|
|
| Nylon
Flag or umbrella fabric |
40-60
|
75/11
– 90/14 S |
A-T,
A-WS, H2O-T, T, or WS |
|
Use
a heavy WS, or iron several sheets together. Don’t stretch
the WS when you hoop it, or it will tear once it’s perforated
and the fabric will pucker around the design. Use the
same color bobbin thread as your top thread if the back side
will show. Don’t hoop the nylon too tight, or it will
pucker when it’s released from the hoop. Wrap the hoop
with tape or rubber shelf liner to minimize slipping.
For umbrellas, pull the end caps off, snip the threads that
hold the seams to the metal spines, and hoop the fabric.
You will have to sew the seams back onto the spines by hand
after you embroider the design. |
| Nylon
Pantyhose |
50-60
|
60/18-70/10
BP |
WS
|
WS
|
Embroider
slowly. Use adhesive spray.
|
|
Nylon
woven strap, webbing, or dog collar
|
30-40
|
90/14-100/16
S
|
A-T,
T, H2O-T, C, or H2O-C
|
|
Print
the image in actual size, right on the stabilizer.
Hoop the stabilizer, making sure to center it accurately,
and adhere the strap to it. If your placement is off,
patch the hole from the back with another piece of stabilizer,
and your hole will show your exact placement. Another
way to mark your placement is to first embroider the design
on the backing, without using any thread.
|
|
Organza
|
50-60
|
60/8-70/10
S
|
WS
or Organza
|
WS
|
|
|
Paper
(any weight)
|
40-60
|
70/10-90/14
S
|
A-T,
C, Ny, T, H2O-T, H2O-C, or WS
|
|
Use
adhesive spray with C, Ny, T, or WS. Hoop backing
and stick paper to it to avoid creases or hoop marks.
If you intend to remove backing, only use thin T or WS with
a light coat of adhesive spray, and do not use water to
remove WS. Best designs are those that are not too
dense and have no underlay. Enlarge designs slightly
to reduce density, if needed. Avoid designs with an
outline, which will cut out the design from the paper.
|
|
Pique
|
40-60
|
70/10-80/12
BP
|
Ny,
F-Ny, C, or H2O-C
|
none
or WS
|
Looks
crisper and stays above fabric better if a good underlay
is present in the design.
|
Chart
prepared by Diamond
Threadworks
Key:
A-Adhesive, BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway,
H2O-Hydrostick or Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh,
S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle, WS-Water Soluble
|
Fabric
Type
|
Thread
weight
|
Needle
|
Backing
|
Topping
|
Other
Considerations
|
|
Polar
Fleece
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
BP
|
C,
H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
Tu
or WS
|
Needs
good underlayer if WS used. Use adhesive spray with
C or Ny
|
|
Polyester
Knit
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
BP
|
C,
H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
|
Use
adhesive spray with C or Ny
|
|
Ribbon
|
40-60
|
70/10-90/14
S
|
A-T,
H2O-T, or T
|
|
Hoop
backing, draw placement lines on back if needed (it shows
through to the front) and stick ribbon onto it. Use
adhesive spray for T
|
|
Satin
|
40-60
|
60/8-70/10
BP
|
Ny,
F-Ny
|
|
|
|
Silk
|
50-60
|
60/8-70/10
BP
|
Ny,
F-Ny
|
|
Don't
use H2O or WS, as water may stain silk.
|
|
Spandex
|
40-60
|
75/11
– 90/14 BP
|
C,
F-Ny, H2O-C, or Ny
|
|
Use
adhesive spray with C or Ny. Don’t stretch while hooping.
Better to hoop the stabilizer, then stick spandex to the
backing and baste in the hoop if needed for added stability.
|
|
Terry
cloth
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
S or BP
|
T
or H2O-T
|
Tu
or WS
|
Needs
good underlayer if WS used. Wet thoroughly before
removing H2O.
|
|
Toilet
paper
|
40-60
|
70/10-90/14
S
|
A-T,
C, Ny, T, H2O-T, H2O-C, or WS
|
|
Use
adhesive spray with C, Ny, T, or WS. Hoop backing
and stick paper to it. Best designs are those that
are not too dense and have no underlay. Enlarge designs
slightly to reduce density, if needed. Unroll the
end of the paper, and discard the first few sheets.
Embroider on the third or fourth sheet from the new end.
Remove backing from hoop, and trim backing to fit the toilet
paper square. Roll up the squares at the end of the
roll, and use adhesive spray to stick them to the back of
the embroidered square.
|
|
Tricot
|
50-60
|
70/10-75/11
BP
|
Ny
or F-Ny
|
|
Use
adhesive spray with Ny
|
|
Trigger
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
BP
|
C,
H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
|
|
|
T-Shirt
knit
|
40
|
75/11-90/14
BP
|
C,
H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
|
Use
adhesive spray with C or Ny
|
|
Tulle
|
40-60
|
60/8-80/12
S or BP
|
Tu
or WS
|
Tu
or WS
|
|
|
Upholstery
Fabric
|
30-40
|
90/14-100/16
S
|
A-T,
T, H2O-T, C, or H2O-C
|
|
Hoop
the stabilizer, not the fabric, and adhere the fabric to
it. Use a basting stitch to keep heavy fabric from
pulling off the stabilizer.
|
|
Velvet
|
40
|
75/11-80/12
S
|
Ha
|
Ha
|
Don't
use water-removable stabilizers on velvet. Design
needs to have good underlayer built in.
|
| Vinyl |
40 |
Leather
needle |
A-T,
C, H2O-C, T, or H2O-T |
|
To
keep vinyl from sticking to the machine, cover the vinyl with
tissue paper, wax paper, or freezer paper, and tear it off
afterwards. You can also try powder on the vinyl
and your hands, but be careful about getting it down into
your machine. If you do, vacuum it out, don’t blow it
in further. You could spray some Teflon spray or silicone
spray on a paper towel and wipe it on the machine. You
could tape a Teflon pressing sheet to the machine, over the
throat plate, or just place some wide masking tape there.
For regular sewing, use a roller foot, Teflon foot, walking
foot, or a dual feed foot. |
| Window
Screen |
40 |
90/14–100/16
S |
A-T,
T, or H2O-T |
|
Only
use nylon, polyester, or vinyl screen, not metal. Use
non-stick pressing sheet and low heat to protect iron and
prevent melting. Don’t slide iron, just press, lift,
and move to prevent stretching. Cut handles on bias
of grain to lay flatter. Use black thread and black
bias tape for edges. |
Chart
prepared by Diamond
Threadworks
Key:
A-Adhesive, BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway,
H2O-Hydrostick or Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh,
S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle, WS-Water Soluble
|
|
